Night Cap/Elf Hat

(I’ve had posts piling up in my head, so you may notice some of the new ones showing up here are back dated to coincide with when the even actually took place.)

In addition to scrapping texture off the ceiling, any spare minutes are consumed making costumes for the school play.  We are doing “A Christmas Carol” and I am pretty much the costume department.  This is short turn around, so no, the costumes are not historically correct.  This is down and dirty sewing!

This morning before taking off for school one of the things I worked on was Scrooge’s night cap.  I didn’t have a pattern so I thought I’d show you what I did.

First I measured the circumference of Scrooge’s (aka Nolan’s) head.  This became the base of an isosceles triangle (for those that slept through math class this is a triangle with two equal sides and two equal angles).  I then marked the middle of that line and drew a line perpendicular to the line the length I wanted the hat.  In my case it was about a yard.  I connected the point of that line with each end of the base and added a half-inch seam allowance.  This is what my paper pattern looked like.

I cut the pattern from one layer of fabric.  In my case I used a single knit — a) because I had it on hand and b) because it was very forgiving for the hat.  It could be made out of a woven, it would just be important to be sure the head measurement was accurate.

I pinned the long sides of the triangle together and because it was knit fabric I stitched the 1/2″  seam with a narrow zig zag.

Then I turned up the bottom edge 1/2″ and once again used a narrow zig zag to stitch it down.  I did say this was down and dirty sewing — I’m not looking for pretty just fast. 

Turn the hat right side out.  You could stop right here, but the hat of course needed a tassel.  I had some navy blue yarn on hand and again quick and easy.  You could make a template to wrap the yarn around.  I just wrapped it around my fingers until it was the density I wanted.

I removed the yarn from my fingers and then used a knot from macrame days at the top. I can’t remember the name of it.   You start with a loop like this.

The loop will go at the top of the tassel and the tail will hang below the start of the bottom wrap.  Leaving the tail hanging wrap the other end of the  yarn around the tassel yarn keeping the wraps tight together, but not overlapping.

When you have gone as high as you want with the wraps cut the yarn leaving another tail.  This tail goes through the loop you have at the top of the tassel.

Now pull the first tail to bring the loop and the second tail down under the wraps.  Don’t pull it all the way through just far enough to bury the loop and the part of the second tail.

Once the loop is pulled down into the wraps the excess from both tails can be cut off close to the wraps.  Then trim the ends of the tassel even and it is ready to stitch onto the tip of the cap.

The directions for the tassel are probably clear as mud.  But I think that is the best I can do with just pictures.

Here is Scrooge/Nolan at practice wearing the cap.

His night-shirt is the robe I made for myself for VBS two summers ago.  The Ghost of Christmas Present is wearing a cape I made from old upholstery remnants that were donated to the school many years ago.  Almost all the costumes I made were from the remnants.  I will hopefully have more pictures soon.

While the cap I made was meant to be a night cap it would make a cute elf cap.  It was very quick to make.

Satin Stitch

I hesitate to even post this video.  Satin stitch is not my favorite stitch and if I’m doing it, I prefer some sort of outline on the edges.  This design doesn’t have an outline and it is far from perfect.  However, it does show the process so maybe you will be more accurate than I.

Running Stitch

If you ever played with hand stitching as a child, this is probably the stitch you did.  I was four years old the first time I remember holding a needle and thread.  The neighbor girls showed me how to sew the edges of fabric together for a Barbie purse.  I’m pretty sure I cut the thread after doing the stitching without knotting off.  I do know these first attempts were a running stitch.

Even before that I had lacing cards similar to this:

I remember playing with them in church.  Going around the shapes was the running stitch.  (If you click on the picture, it should take you to the eBay auction for these.)  I haven’t seen any lacing cards for years.  After searching the net for a picture, I know they are still available.

All that to lead into a video of the running stitch.

 

Blanket Stitch

The blanket stitch is frequently used around the edges of applique.  It can also be used as an outline stitch.  My video was done around a small star so the blanket stitch doesn’t flow like it would over a longer line.  If I hear it is confusing I’ll record again when I’m working on something less choppy.

This block from “A Stitcher’s Garden” by Bird Brain Designs shows the use of the blanket stitch as an outline.  (These blocks have been on this site before.) 

French Knot

The next video shows how to stitch a French knot.  French knots can be used for all sorts of things: eyes, buttons, flower centers, fills, etc.  I mention this in the video, but French knots shouldn’t have more than 3 wraps.  If you want a larger knot than you can make with three wraps, use more strands of embroidery floss.

Outline Stitches (Back Stitch & Stem Stitch)

Some of my friends have seen the hand embroidery I’ve been working on and have decided to try it out for themselves.  There are many different types of learners out there and for some diagrams just don’t cut it.  So I’m making a feeble attempt at making videos of various stitches.  I’m placing a disclaimer right here and now — I am not an EXPERT!  This is how I do the stitches, it isn’t necessarily the best, but it works for me.

Back Stitch

The back stitch is fairly easy and fast once you get the hang of it.  Lots of current commercial patterns use it for all outlining.  It turns tight corners well and works for details like words.

Stem Stitch

The stem stitch is a bolder stitch than the back stitch.  It does take a little longer and tends to roll when going around tight curves.  It seems a lot of stitchers at this time prefer the back stitch.  However, the stem stitch does have its place and is a beautiful stitch.

This picture shows a magnified view of the stem stitch on top (in red)  and the back stitch on the bottom (in blue).  This project is being worked with three strands of embroidery floss.

This has been an entertaining start to this endeavor.  I have the camera resting on my chest so it is possible for the viewer to see what I am doing.  This means it is more difficult for me to see and also means the camera moves when I breathe or talk.  Ah, well my boys aren’t interested in playing camera crew so this is the best I can do at the moment.

More stitches to come as I record them and have time to upload them.

Satin Stitch — A Finish for Fusible Web Applique

I think I’m pretty much finished with my PowerPoint presentation for Thursday night.  I didn’t have any good visuals for doing a satin stitch finish on fusible web applique.  I really don’t use it much anymore except for when I’m machine embroidering applique.  However, I wanted to be able to explain it. 

So here is what I came up with:

For a satin stitch I prefer the stitch that looks like a lightening bolt rather than the standard zig zag.  Using test pieces deterine what length and width you prefer.  I always stitch cover stitches with the needle down function engaged.

The majority of the satin stitch should be on the applique fabric.  The outside swing of the needle should fall just off the applique fabric on the background.  The idea is to keep the stitches perpendicular to the edge of the applique.  Pivoting is a little different from the blanket stitch cover stitch.  These are the basics

For concave curves pivot while the needle is on the inside swing (on the applique fabric).  The tighter the curve the more frequently the piece will need to be pivoted.

For convex curves the pivot point will be on the outside swing (when the needle is on the background fabric).  Again the tighter the curve the more frequently the piece will need to be pivoted.

On inside corners the stitch until the satin stitch is the width of the stitch beyond the corner.  With the needle down on the inside swing, pivot the piece.

For outside corners stitch all the way to the corner and with the needle down on the outside swing at the corner pivot the piece.

As one approaches a sharp point or corner it may be helpful to narrow the stitch.  These are just the basics, but it is a start.

Mock Hand Applique

I wanted to do a tutorial on mock hand applique for my presentation next week. I woke up this morning with an idea.  So I ran with it, and created the following tutorial.  I’m going to insert a disclaimer here.  This would never be one of my top choices as a method for applique.  I know some people love it, but there are at least three reasons I’m not wild about it.  First, if I’m going to put this much prep work into something I’d rather do the stitching by hand.  Second, I’m just not that accurate with the stitching on this method — it could be my eyes.  Finally the backing has to be slit or cut away to remove the paper.  I typically avoid doing that so that my finished quilt top is more stable.  Having said all that, this is another method for applique so let’s take a look at the process.

1.  I created my own pattern in Photoshop.  There are  many fun ways to use the computer for applique.  It is so easy to do lettering.  I’m fairly certain I left this jpg at full size so you could click on the picture and then print it for a pattern if you want.  You certainly wouldn’t have to use this applique method!

2.  I was very lazy today and instead of tracing the pattern onto freezer paper, I cut the freezer paper to 8-1/2 x 11 and put it through my printer.  I did mirror image the design before printing it on the freezer paper.

3.  I cut out the patterns with a craft knife (aka Exacto knife).  Scissors would work, but for this project I ended up using both the pattern pieces and the cut away background.

4.  Next a pressed the freezer paper shapes to the wrong side of the applique fabric.

5.  I then cut out each applique piece leaving a scant 1/4″ seam allowance.  I did clip curves and inside corners as close as possible to the freezer paper.

6. I covered my work surface with scrap paper and used a washable glue stick and a skewer (or tooth pick) to glue the seam allowance to the freezer paper.

A short video might show it better.

7.  After all my applique pieces were prepared, I used the background from my pattern as a placement guide.  I used dots of washable school glue on the back of the pieces to glue baste.  I pressed with a hot iron to dry the glue quickly.

8.  The next step is to stitch the pieces down.  I used a blind hem stitch which I narrowed to about .7mm.   The narrower you can get it and catch the applique fabric the better.  I also shortened the stitch.  The straight stitches should be on the background fabric right next to the applique and the bite of the stitch that swings in should just catch a couple of threads and then swing back to the outside edge.  I think I may need the magnifier attachment for my machine, because this was not a fun process today.

9.  After all the pieces are stitched down, the freezer paper needs to be removed from the applique pieces.  Carefully make slits in the background fabric behind the applique.  The glue needs to be gotten wet to be able to remove the paper.  I just soaked the whole piece with water for a little bit and then removed the paper.  You could also try laying a damp towel on the piece for a bit to loosen the glue.

10.  Finally press the whole piece dry.  I did it from the back.  You will want to be careful  using a hot iron on the monofiliment thread, because it can melt.  Here is my final piece.  I’m not overjoyed with the quality, but at least it showed the process.

May Basket

I’m continuing work on the A Tisket A Tasket mystery block of the month. Once again I am slightly behind.  I just finished the May basket today.  I did modify it slightly.  The pattern only had two pieces for each flower — the flower and the center.  I made five complete petals on each flower.  I’m happier with the flower, not so sure about the butterfly.  He is growing on me, which is good since I’m not going to redo it!

May Basket

I took pictures of how to prepare nearly perfect circles for applique.  The first time I used this method was over 13 years ago.  I know that because I was piecing two of these Cars Cars Cars quilts from the book T.L.C Tender Loving Covers (bottom 5 rows are from the book, the cement truck and race car at the top were my own design to make the quilt longer..  I was pregnant with Jesse and Nolan was sitting on my lap while I was working on the quilt.  At that time I was cutting up cereal boxes to make my circle templates.

These quilts are wearing out which is to be expected after over nine years of continuous use.

Later I discovered Mylar — a heat resistant template material — and cut circles from that.  However, it can be difficult to cut a perfect circle.   These days I use pre-made mylar templates.

Precut Mylar circles

The first step is to cut a circle from the fabric roughly a scant half inch larger in diameter than the template.  It doesn’t need to be perfect.

Cut circles from fabric

Next baste around the outside edge of the circle.  Any old thread will work.  Then place the template in the center of the wrong side of the fabric and pull up the basting thread and knot it off. 

Basted circles

3 more things are needed to press the circles — a hot iron, a small paint brush and either Sizing or Starch.  I prefer Sizing because I don’t rush through my quilts or necessarily wash them when I am finished.  Starch can attract insects, Silverfish in particular.  They like to eat starch and will eat the fibers in the fabric at the same time.

Tools for pressing the circles

Spray some of the Sizing or Starch into the lid of the can.  You could use a different container, but why when the lid is so handy?

Sizing sprayed into the lid

Now use the paint brush to saturate the seam allowance of the circle piece.

Saturate Seam Allowance with Sizing

Press the circle with a hot iron until it is dry.  My iron was  on the cotton setting

Press

Carefully snip a stitch in the basting thread.

Snip

 Gently pull back the seam allowance enough to remove the circle template.  The seam allowance will go right back into place.

Circles after template is removed

The circles are now ready to be stitched onto the design.

Machine Blanket Stitch

We gave Nolan a Kodak Zi6 for graduation.  It is a very compact video camera.  I’ve been eying it and finally snagged it today to try to do a video showing how to machine blanket stitch raw edge applique.  It is a really cool little camera, but I’m struggling with getting the focus exactly right looking at the presser foot of a sewing machine.  I can zoom in regular mode and it isn’t perfectly focused and the micro focus wants to be closer than I can set the camera and still sew.  I need to play more, but for now here is a 5 minute video on stitching machine blanket stitch around applique pieces.